Sandakphu and Phalut

I believe!  We got back last night from Darjeeling after three beautiful, exhausting, completely fulfilling days in the mountains.  Fede was in his late 20s when he did this trek, and I am certainly in worse shape now than he was then.  Fifty five years ago, there was merely a shepherd's trail up to Sandakphu and Phalut, and virtually no settlements along the way.  Today, if your body is up to it, and your courage holds up, you can take a vehicle all the way to the top on a cobble road that winds through a forest that is a curious mix of tropical and temperate.  Bamboo mixes with oak, and tropical fern mixes with rhododendron.  When we finally reach Sandakphu, it is evening, cloudy and cold.  We seek the warmth of the lodge, drinking hot lemon, and lots of ginger tea.  Strong winds disturb our sleep throughout the night, and all three of us wake up with strong headaches from the altitude and the tiny cabin.  The views  are spectacular, and any words will profane them.

We move on to Phalut, a rolling journey across open grassland.  The clouds have gathered thick around our hut and we spend our time in the warmest place -- in Kamala's kitchen, trying our best to get warm. Our sleeping bags are difficult to get out of the next morning, but Kamala's warm porridge is enticing enough.  Another bone-wrenching journey down, and we are back in Darjeeling for a hot shower and a well-deserved sleep.  The next day, we wander the streets of Darjeeling and meet with one of Fede's old friends, Fr. Van.  We are keen to meet Fede once again, and we hop into a taxi to Kalimpong.  The driver, Sanjay, is a catastrophist not merely in his driving.  He fills the journey with stories of catastrophes past and catastrophes yet to come while dodging traffic and sailing around curves with a skill bordering on miracle.

Fede is in great spirits, and we are like excited children explaining our trip to him.  He relives his memories through our stories, and in his eyes, you can see 55 years melt away.  This makes it all worth while.